Tehama

Troubleshooting System Offline

OVERVIEW:

The Tehama DCAP has 2 methods of connecting to the internet. These are either via Ethernet cable connected directly to a network hub or router system, and the other is via Wifi. I have 2 individual guides below to explain the steps on how to troubleshoot them. There is also a Cellular modem option but this uses the ethernet port so this adds a few extra things to check that are more network related and not an issue with the DCAP itself. Before that however, there is a basic checklist that can be done which is a list of common issues we see. These could cause the system to be offline:

• Surge protector of GFCI outlet - Has this been tripped and needs to be reset?

• There are 2 power supplies on a system attached to a Netgear Cellular Modem. Are both still plugged in?

• Have you attempted to reset the device yet? Remove the power plug, wait 15 seconds and plug it back into the outlet? If paired with a netgear, reset both.

If these have been performed and confirmed are working properly, here are the guides for each type:

Tehama DCAP connected via Ethernet:

The Ethernet connection loss is usually a result of two issues. Usually caused by a change in the network (Ethernet cable unplugged / Damaged, the system it was connected to uses a static IP system and locked the port), or there is a device failure. Verify that the ethernet cable has not been unplugged, that there are lights active on the ethernet port of the DCAP when it is attached, and that this is on an open dynamic IP port where the signal can get through (your IT people will know what to do). If there has been no change in the network, you may have a hardware error. I would advise moving the DCAP to a separate location and testing on an open network to see this was being blocked. If the status light never turns green then you may have a hardware issue and may need to send it in for repair.

If this is the case, then we'd advise setting up a time on one of our technicians calendars for a service call so we can attempt to troubleshoot over the phone. The person doing this will need to have access to the DCAP itself and must be on-site at the time of the call. We will not try to coordinate through a 3rd party who is not there to diagnose as we need up to date information from someone with eyes on the problem.

Tehama DCAP connected via Wifi:

This is a tricky one to assist with. If using the Wifi option it had to be set up by someone who had access to the CIT tool and the special cable made from Tehama to connect via USB to the 3.5mm Jack on the DCAP. If you have these tools you can directly connect to the DCAP and check the wifi name and password and adjust it as needed. 

If you do not have this tool and a change is made to the network then you will need someone with that cable and tool to come and reset it for you, or you will need to get the cable and tool from Tehama. We can attempt to assist you with getting these but it is an added cost as the tool is not free. If this is the case please contact our service department via email: Service@submetersolutions.com and inquire about getting the tool.

Tehama DCAP connected via Cell Modem:

Similar to Ethernet but with a cell modem acting as the network. The Cell modem adds some extra items that can cause issues outside of the ethernet port. It has a few possibilities on what could cause the system to fail to report in. Below is a list of common issues:

• Poor or low cell signal

• Sim Card Deactivation

• Sim Card Missing / dislodged

• If in an Orbit enclosure, does the GFCI have a “WF” printed on the corner? 

Here are the steps you should take to test each of the items above and verify the problem. 

1. Verify the Netgear Modem as Either a green LED for newer models, or that you have at least 2 bars of signal (bare minimum).

2. Open the Sim Card slot on the underside of the modem and verify that it is there and that it has been dislodged from the metal harness it sits in. All pins need to be connected on the sim or it doesn’t work

3. Verify there has not been anything covering up the modem and DCAP such as boxes, items containing metals like car parts, bikes, storage in General. This also goes for the system in an Orbit enclosure. Cell signals need to get out and when surrounded by items it can cause signal gaps.

4. Speaking of Orbit Enclosure, the last thing to check is that if paired with an outdoor enclosure, the correct GFCI was installed. These containers come with a standard GFCI which is susceptible to tripping the breaker when radio waves and wifi signal is next to them. We swap these out before shipping and also send them out to electricians so they install the correct one. The indicator of this is a “WF” printed on the GFCI. If you don’t see this, you need to get one installed that won't trip while the device is on. We do sell them if needed. 

If unable to resolve:

If after you have followed these steps and haven’t gotten equipment online, the next step is to set up a time with one of our technicians to troubleshoot over the phone. It is critical that the person talking with our team is on-location with the equipment during the call. We will not be able to troubleshoot further without direct access to the equipment.

Schedule a time to talk:

https://submetersolutions.zohobookings.com/#/customer/service 

Tehama DCAP Status lights - Online vs Offline

Fig. A: Tehama standard range DCAP connected via Ethernet (Status: Online)

Fig. B: Tehama standard range DCAP connected via Ethernet (Status: Offline)